Problem: The buckram and fusible web sticks to your ironing table.

Solution: Use a non-stick oven liner and place it over your ironing table.  The buckram and fusible web will come off easily and any residue can be rubbed off with your fingers.  You can even use a second oven liner as a press cloth to protect your iron if you need to press down on your project with the iron.

Problem: Hand sewing through buckram wares holes in your fingertips.

Solution: Use a Thimble.  When used correctly a thimble can help you sew through buckram without encumbering your movement.  The correct way to use a thimble is to wear it on the middle finger of your dominant hand.  Many people make the mistake of wearing a thimble on their index finger.  This makes it difficult to grab the needle and pull it through.   However, if you wear a thimble on your middle finger you can use the thimble to push the needle through and leave your index finger free to grab the needle.  Make sure you get a thimble that fits.  Thimbles come in many sizes and out of many different materials.  Experiment and find the thimble that works best for you.

Problem: Sometimes you don’t have a thimble.

Solution: If you don’t have a thimble or a thimble just feels like overkill you to try using a bandage instead.  They make bandages especially for fingertips and they provide just enough protection for your finger.  Once again remember to put it on the correct finger; the middle finger of your dominant hand.

Problem: Theatrical weight buckram and large feathers can be hard to sew through even with a thimble.

Solution: Use a pair of needle nose pliers to push or pull the needle through these excessively though materials.

Problem: Sometimes you don’t have pliers.

Solution: After pushing the needle in as far as you can put the eye of the needle on the table and push your project down until the needle goes through.

Problem: It can be difficult to pull your fabric completely taught over your brim.

Solution: There is a particular order in which you can pin your fabric that helps eliminate lumps and wrinkles.  Imagine that your brim is the face of a clock.  Place your first pin at 12:00, pull the fabric taught and place your second pin at 6:00; directly opposite from your first.  Next pin at 3:00, pull taught and pin again at 9:00.  Then repeat this process at 1:00 & 7:00, 10:00 & 4:00, 2:00 & 8:00, and finally 11:00 & 5:00. 

Problem: When pinning buckram your pins often get bent.

Solution:  To keep from bending too many pins when pinning around the brim you can pin through the French elastic rather than all the way through the buckram.

Problem: Long plumes often twist and change direction after being sewn onto a hat.

Solution: After sewing on the feather use a small amount of glue to keep it from twisting.  DO NOT glue the feather to the hat or your hat will be difficult to re-trim.  Instead glue the thread from your stitches to the rachis of the feather

Problem: If you do not sew perfectly straight over your wire you will break a needle.

Solution:  Make sure your wire is perfectly centered before you begin.  Most machine feet have a grove on the top which marks the center, many even have a similar grove on the bottom.  If your foot has groove on the bottom line it up over the wire and you should be able to feel the wire resting in this groove as you sew.  If not keep a close eye on the groove on the top of the foot.  Sew slowly and keep the wire centered.  Use a wide zigzag stitch to reduce you chance of hitting the wire with your needle.  Always wear your safety glasses!

Problem: After hand sewing for a long time your back, neck, and eyes get sore.

Solution:  Treat yourself to a comfortable chair.  Retain good posture by remembering to bring your project to you rather than hunching over your project.  Sometimes the best way to keep from hunching over your project is to lean back and use the empty chair next to you to prop your feet up.  Take frequent stretch breaks and rest your eyes by stepping outside for a few minutes and focusing on something far away.